Guardian Angels: I felt Safer Sleeping Beside Hyenas Than Humans** This article will include references to sexual assault. If this topic bothers you, have caution before reading fully.** "There will be spotted hyenas in our camp in Serengeti" is not a phrase that excites most people, but it excited me. That very day, I'd seen my first ever hyenas in Ngorongoro Crater and then on the drive through Serengeti to our camp. A big female had come within ten feet of me, eagerly vying for some zebra meat. Eventually, she had managed to make off with a bit of spine, loping into the grasslands with her prize with the same enthusiasm of a dog that had just stolen ribs off a dinner table. Don't get me wrong, I loved watching the lions, but there was something ethereal, something humanly intelligent about hyenas that I didn't see in lions. Maybe it was the way the female hyena communicated with her peers, yipping and barking and giggling. Maybe it was the way she seemed to grin the closer and closer she got to the carcass . Hyenas laugh when they're stressed or aggressive, but it's still a strangely human or canine trait- despite the fact hyenas are more closely related to cats and mongoose than dogs. Whatever the case, I was already fascinated by hyenas. But I'm part of the minority. If you grew up watching The Lion King - or even if you didn't - odds are, you've been afraid of the cackling carnivores at least part of your life. Admittedly, I went through a phase when I was about eight when I refused to watch The Lion King because of the hyenas (before then, I was perfectly fine with the movie). My research is on gray wolves, and they get their own share of hate, but if there's one animal hated more than wolves, it's hyenas. Considering leopards and lions both kill more people a year than hyenas, it's numerically strange why hyenas are so feared. Perhaps it's the way they eat their prey- often, hyenas tear into larger animals alive. This is to decrease the chances of kleptoparasitism, or the theft of their kill by another predator like a lion (fun fact: studies in Africa have shown that lions steal more from hyenas than the other way around). But African wild dogs, not to mention many other predators, likewise eat their prey alive and they're not hated as much as hyenas. In the end, it doesn't much matter the exact reasons why people dislike hyenas. Everyone knows that they're one of the most vilified animals in the world. I'll discuss the prejudice against both hyenas and wolves in an upcoming article, but for now, I'll leave it at "most people do not like and are afraid of hyenas". Noisy NeighborsWe saw the first hyena in camp just after dinner. It was already dark, and we wore headlamps and some of us also carried flashlights. A large female hyena ran around the back and dashed into the kitchen area, trying to make off with some of the trash (taka in Swahili). We saw her for only a couple seconds before she was chased off - yes, chased off; hyenas are actually quite frightened of people- but it was enough to stir a reaction. Some people were frightened. I was electrified. Half an hour later, I heard noise around the fire. I stood up and shone my flashlight into the bush behind our tents. Two bright, glowing eyes stared right back at me. There were two hyenas, and one ran between two tents, but the other retreated at my light. They were not even ten feet away. You must be crazy to not be terrified of hyenas so close to your camp. Hold on to your hats, friends, because they got even closer. People kept the hyenas from really entering the camp- well, awake people. When we went inside our tents, it was the signal for the hyenas to consider whether or not they wanted to come right into camp. And they did. It took a couple hours, but nearly immediately I could hear their whoops begin in the distance. Each whoop started off quiet, then got louder before trailing off. ooooooOOOOOOOOOOoooooo. Whoops are primarily used to state territory and male dominance hierarchy: the louder the whoop, generally the bigger and more dominant the male. Not that it matters completely- females rule spotted hyena clans. Even the lowest ranking female generally outranks the highest ranking male. The whoops continued into the night, and started to get louder and louder as the hyenas came closer. At first, the sounds made goosebumps rise on my skin, but the feeling was one more of fascination than fear. Despite our noisy neighbors, I fell asleep quickly. ooooooOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOoooooo.ooooooOOOOOOOOOOoooooo. Only a couple hours after I fell asleep, I woke up to what sounded like a miniature stampede outside my tent, coupled with OOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOO. There had to be at least ten hyenas in our camp, running amongst the tents and whooping. Some grunted, and I heard a couple giggles, but mostly it was the rising and falling whoops that permeated the air. Their paws thumped the ground outside my tent as they ran amok. At one point, I heard a garbage can crash over. For about half an hour, I listened to them. I loved listening to them. I knew they were talking to each other, communicating, strategizing, maintaining and challenging dominance hierarchies, and probably having a bit of fun. I didn't fear them, although I certainly wasn't about to unzip my tent and try to join them for a late-night pantry raid. Eventually, despite the chaos, I fell asleep quite peacefully once again. OOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOoooooOOOOOO At about four in the morning, I nearly jumped out of my skin. The whoops were coming from directly outside my tent, and by directly outside my tent, I mean I could see the vague outline of a giant hyena through an uncovered portion of mesh in the top of the tent. I didn't move, although I did text my boyfriend something along the lines of Oh my god there's a huge hyena smack outside my tent whooping, I nearly had a heart attack. This was the only moment I felt actual fear, but it was more from the startle of being woken up to a loud sound than the actual hyena. It only took me a few minutes to calm down, and then I was treated to a front row seat to a symphonic melody of whooping hyenas. The big one - it was a female, a guard would tell me the next day- just sat there as she whooped, and her companions responded in kind, more off in the distance. The REal MonstersooooooOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOoooooo.ooooooOOOOOOOOOOoooooo.The next night, a lot more people camped at the site. Instead of hyenas, the night was filled with loud human laughter, drinking, and talking. They terrified me. Why on earth would I be scared of humans beside my tent and content to listening to whooping hyenas scampering around me? Hyenas, after all, are monsters- at least that's what many seem to believe. Hyenas will attack you at any weakness, will take you alive, will laugh and not care about their defenseless prey. Why would I not fear them? Mostly because a hyena had not attacked me at my weakness, taken me in protest, laughed at me, or grabbed me as defenseless prey. But a human had. A little more than a year before my encounters with the hyenas, I was raped in my own bed. In my memory, the night is both vividly horrific and blessedly bleary. The morning after, as I lay naked and abandoned, all I could do was hold my body and scream. I screamed until I collapsed. It set off the next couple months of me struggling to survive, of considering killing myself daily from the complete numbness and pain that crawled and creeped through my body. Animals, especially wild animals, were my savior. It is very common for victims of trauma to disassociate, where their minds essentially separate from their bodies and they hardly process any thought. It happened to me. It felt as though I were simply watching myself walk, talk, even laugh throughout the next several weeks. I sometimes hallucinated a big black she-wolf I would later name Raksha. She stayed by my side and fended off any dangers or demons. And at night, she slept beside my bed, ready to attack any monster that came to call. Raksha, in my mind's eye, had been my guardian angel. She inspired my interest in wolves that would lead to my research and, in a way, a second chance at life, a purpose that I threw myself into with full force. But in Africa, in Tanzania, I had no Raksha, partially because the hallucinations had stopped with the disassociation long before. At the campsite in the middle of wild Serengeti, I was surrounded by loud people, strange people, and I was frightened. The humans frightened me more than the hyenas because humans had been my monsters more than any wild animal could. Hyenas never laid a hair on me, never tried to rush at me or attack me, never tried to kill me. A human had very nearly killed me. But, I wasn't alone. Though not loudly, in the distance the second night, above the laughter and talking of the strangers that so frightened me, I heard the eerie, beautiful sounds that had fascinated me the night before. ooooooOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOoooooo.ooooooOOOOOOOOOOoooooo. That was enough to reach my soul and settle my wildly beating heart. I imagined that they were nearby, eyes glowing as they patrolled the camp. Like Raksha had been my protection long before, in Tanzania, I had other guardian angels. They came in the form of a crazy clan of eccentric, whooping, galloping hyenas. With their far off whooping in the starlit Tanzanian midnight, these guardian angels lulled me to sleep with the promise that they were always keeping watch- and probably knocking over garbage cans.
24 Comments
Gerri Clemens
8/16/2019 02:31:32 pm
Aspen I have tears in my eyes reading this beautiful love story you've written. I see love story from your pain. The ability to express is a gift you've been given by better angels Raksha and hyenas.
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Aspen
8/16/2019 04:47:13 pm
Thank you, Ms. Gerri, for taking the time to read and tell me how your perspectives of hyenas have changed. I wish everyone could see them in a positive light. Your constant support has been nothing short of gratifying.
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7/30/2023 01:10:49 pm
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